Rip Out, Prep, Waterproofing, Tile Installation :
We completed a hall bath shower rip out & replace in Tampa for a Architect we know. This is his personal home and is located in West Central Florida and is about 30 years old. The shower pan was done incorrectly and it didn’t have a pre-slope under the liner, had a drain directly connected to the drain pipe and was nailed at the bottom through the liner to the studs. Whoever built this shower pan had no idea on how to build a properly waterproofed traditional pre slope pan & liner. Where would the water go that saturates the mud bed without having weep holes? Something us professionals don’t like seeing.
Being a Tile Contractor in Tampa there was something else I didn’t like seeing, it was the way they did a fake wall mud tile job look. They pretty much put cement board over top drywall and used mastic with 4×4 wall tile and a mud cap A-4200. It gives the look of a built out mud wall but not an actual good way of doing it. Mastic is NEVER good in a shower or wet area and can re-emulsify when wet over time. We demoed the whole old shower area, removing the wall tile, cementboard, old drywall, shower floor tile, mud bed, liner & drain.
We then installed the new cement board, mesh taped the joints and used thinset over them. Installed a new Ebbe drain riser and drain and a new mud bed using Laticrete 3701 fortified mortar bed. The 3701 is a thick-bed mortar that is exceptionally strong and resistant to weather, frost, thermal and physical shock, pre blended and perfect for a job like this. After the cement board and mesh tape was up and the Mud bed cured we used HydroBan liquid waterproofing on the shower pan and up the walls and over the shower curb. We used the divot method to tie the waterproofing into the clamping ring drain, and the filled the divot, packed with pea gravel, mud and more HydroBan over it. (some installers that do the “divot drain method” with a liquid waterproofing membrane will elect to not coat the packed divot area with a final coat of liquid waterproofing.) this is because they want the water that seeps into the grout to drain freely into the divot area and into the weep holes. both ways will work.
Once the HydroBan was dry we then laid out our wall tile to achieve the best full size cuts in the corners. The tile we were using picked out by the Homeowner was a Floor Gres 4×4 Ceramic White tile with scalloped edges. He also selected Spanish style red rectified porcelain 16×16 tile to go on the bath floor from a local tile showroom. We also cut the 16×16 floor tile down to match the size of the Ebbe drain grate.
The installation went great since our wall and floor prep was done correctly. The scalloped edged tile were hard to put up since the varying sized grout joints could not take a spacer, so for that we used an non sag mortar from Laticrete called MultiMax 255 which held the tile in place and didn’t allow them to slide, better then using a ledger board and spacers. We then set the rectified floor tile with 3/16″ grout joints per the owners request. He purchased a matching red grout for the main floor and the shower floor and a bright white sanded grout for the wall tile, both grouts were Pro Spec 700 sanded grout.
Grouting went easy and we cleaned up and final washed the tile and turned it over to the homeowner. He was very pleased with how it came out and could not believe the before and after look of his bathroom. The owner was going to install a hard Ipe wood for his curb. I usually suggest a marble sill or tile on the curb, but seeing how the dense cell structure of IPÊ (all heart wood) is not only naturally resistant to insects but also to decay, rot, molds and weather has little to no effect upon the structural integrity of IPÊ wood, it would do good as a shower curb sill. He was also going to urethane seal it and I suggested to him to attach it with either an epoxy or a polyurethane construction adhesive like Liquid Nail or PL Premium.
below are some pictures taken during to project, I hope you enjoy them.